October

Once settled in Calheta we hired a car to visit Funchal and to do some exploring and walking. Sadly our primary GPS failed on arrival in the marina and we fortunately found just the right replacement off a shelf in Funchal. We have a back-up unit and a hand-held as well for just this eventuality! The replacement is now fitted, functional and integrated.

Levadas running across the hillside

We picked a beautiful day for our first levada walk. The levadas are irrigation channels which carry reliable water supplies from the wetter higher areas to where they are most needed. They were started in 1425 and have been regulated since 1493. Workers were hung in wicker baskets to cut into rock faces and there has been extensive tunneling. Slave labour was mainly used until this was outlawed in 1761 and many, many lives were lost. Now it is possible to walk extensively along these

The valley near Rabacal where the walk to the 25 Springs begins

levadas but their water diversion remains essential to the economy. Some of these walks are on wide paths with imperceptible incline, others are high on valley sides with a pathway about 15 inches wide with no protection from falling. A tendency to vertigo is not advised! We set off for the “25 Springs” and enjoyed spectacular views along the way. The climb back up to the car left us breathless and stiff but we wouldn’t have missed it for the world.

The walk next to the Risco levado - broad and flat
The 25 Springs feeding the levada

On a second day out we drove slowly round the west coast to the northern edge where the cloud thickened and the wind blew hard. We found more areas where the sea shore below steep cliffs was carefully cultivated and served by a cable car. The one at Quebrada do Negro offered a long slow walk to the foot of the 1,500 ft cliff and a ride back up in an almost vertical cable car with 20 knot cross winds. The mate was offered the round trip but declined (with abuse). Maybe another day?

The cable car at Quinto do Negro with three seats and stainless steel sick bowl

As we went north along the coast there were splendid and forbidding views of the Atlantic with huge swells breaking at the foot of the cliffs and spray being blown back of their crests. We have a depression coming at the end of this week with winds of 30 knots+ expected. This coast will become a boiling cauldron and maybe the mate can be persuaded to face the cable car? Suspect not... There is a stainless steel bowl in it for some reason.

A local delicacy is flat loaves of bread filled with herb butter or chourico sausage. While this can be bought in the supermarcado it is at its best from the roadside stall. The dough is very strong and elastic and the flavour and texture is all the better for a log burning griddle. The whole serves as a focal point for social exchange and the Madeirans are so friendly.

A view to the north along the west coast
Stall selling traditional flat breads - the authorities want them removed
Animated social life at the bread stall

We are going to hire a car again and do some more levada walks. My sister has recommended one which we are keen to try.

We are in no hurry to move on to the Canary Islands yet as we have visited them several times.

We will wait for the expected depression to move away and then sail the 300 miles southeast to Graciosa.

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