September-October

Sadly Jo returned to the UK from Madeira to start as a “Newly Qualified” solicitor in the corporate section of Eversheds in London. We went back to Porto Santo on the ferry but had already decided to bring our own boat back to Madeira and explore the island further.
Once back in Porto Santo we found ourselves in the middle of a three day festival to honour Christopher Columbus. He came to the island to marry the governor’s daughter and they lived in a house which is now preserved as a museum. This whole saga was re-enacted to great effect, including landing Columbus from a replica sailing ship and him jumping into the surf on the beach to greet his bride. All the better for a lightly controlled crowd who could mingle with the pageant as it progressed. There were street performers, concerts, stalls and other events.

Crowds and actors await the arrival of Columbus

One event which the local sailors invaded was the sand sculpture competition. The children’s competition was won by a young British girl off the boat next door. The Vikings won the adult prize with a map of Europe and Columbus sailing towards the sea-monsters out to the undiscovered west. To the north and certainly further west was a small Viking ship...
We had great fun in Porto Santo but Madeira was beckoning again. Certainly we will be left with great memories, like being served pieces roast quail on a sword hung vertically over the table and trying our hand at the traditional harbour wall painting. Sadly we are not artistic and we will be relying on Eleanor in Las Palmas!

Columbus and his bride walking up from the beach
Our first attempt at the traditional wall painting. Maybe better in Las Palmas?

The passage to Madeira was a day-sail on a dead run with the genoa poled out all the way. As we rounded the first of the off lying islands we had a close-hauled leg up to the marina at Quinta do Lorde. A rib came out to invite us in long before we got there! Sadly all their enthusiasm could not counter-balance the reality of the place. I would describe it as a “marina kit” which will probably be wonderful when it is finished. In the meantime it was mainly a building site with portacabin toilets and showers. The toilets were a particular delight, being the two-footprints-and-a-hole variety where you need to avoid the backwash round your feet when flushing!
We stayed two nights and promptly set out for Calheta Marina at the south western corner of the island. Another dead run until we reached the headland at the start of the Funchal Bay. The wind stopped completely and we could see yachts coming into the bay from the other side, also on a dead run! We motored from here on and enjoyed the beautiful coast.

Arrival at Madeira in the afternoon - with typical cloud cover
The marina kit at Quinta do Lorde
The vertical lines are the track for the cliff elevator with small white cable cars to the left as well
The cliff next to the elevator with cable car cables in foreground
The view from Cabo Girau towards Funchal
The cultivated area below the cable car and elevator

The area of land at the bottom of the steep cliffs along this coast is carefully cultivated, even though access may be limited to a cliff elevator or cable car such as pictured here. We were able to explore the view from the top a few days later!

The Calheta marina was finished and great even with swell!!

A super collection of boats from Northern Europe here and much socialising and discussion. People are beginning to reason out how to plan the navigation over the Atlantic with different styles already evident.

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